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2013年9月28日星期六

Separation Anxiety in Dogs: Part 2


The previous blog gave an overview of separation anxiety in dogs and its possible cause. This blog will focus on how dogs display separation anxiety.


Presentation


Unwanted behavioral signs of separation anxiety are only seen when the owner is absent, or when the dog is prevented from being close to the owner (at night, for instance). Under such circumstances, a needy dog is in a high state of anxiety because she wants to be with her owner and is prevented from doing so. Dogs, like people, cannot stay in a high state of anxiety for long, and must do something to relieve the tension.


To reduce the tension, dogs may engage in destructive behavior, house soiling, and distress vocalization. Other signs may include a reduced activity level, depression, loss of appetite, ritualized pacing, aggression when the owner leaves (mouthing, growling, nipping, or body blocking), excessive grooming, diarrhea, vomiting, panting and salivation. Signs of over-attachment when the owner is home include excessive following behavior, anxious behaviors associated with signals that the owner is preparing to depart, and exuberant greetings.


Excessive chewing, digging and scratching tends to occur in areas near doors and windows (“barrier frustration”). Damage in such areas is virtually diagnostic of separation anxiety. These areas represent exit routes for the dog as it attempts to reunite herself with the owner or, at least, to escape the loneliness. If the dog is confined to a crate, or its movements are restricted by a gate, destruction is usually centered around the crate door or the gate itself. The dog may seriously injure itself during these escape attempts. Attempts to free itself from barriers may result in broken nails or teeth, a bloody mouth, or more extensive injuries from tearing through glass and wood. Dogs may also destroy property that carries the owner’s scent, such as bedding, furniture, clothing, or shoes.


Barking, howling and whining are other common signs of separation anxiety. Distress vocalization and active seeking behavior occur when many social animals are separated from their companions. Such distress vocalizations represent the dog’s attempt to reunite the social unit. Excessive vocalization may occur primarily at the time of the owner’s departure or may continue throughout the duration of the owner’s absence. Owners are often unaware that their dog is distressed by the departure and it is only when neighbors complain about the excessive barking or howling that they become aware that their dog has a separation problem.


Dogs with separation anxiety may become so distressed in their owners’ absence that they urinate or defecate in the house. When this occurs only in the owner’s absence, such “inappropriate” elimination is not indicative of a loss of house training but rather is a physiological response to the extreme distress the dog is experiencing from being alone. House soiling typically occurs within 30 minutes of the owner’s departure as the dog becomes more anxious.


The first step in treating separation anxiety is to break the cycle of anxiety. Every time a dog with separation anxiety becomes anxious when its owner leaves, the distress it feels is reinforced until it becomes absolutely frantic every time the dog is left alone.


The next blog will focus on treatment and behavior modification for separation anxiety in dogs.


Separation anxiety and rescue dogs

Probably the most frequent cause for rescued dogs being returned after an unsuccessful placement is separation anxiety. This is one reason why we are usually strict about not rehoming to owners who will need to leave their dogs for very long periods. Many rescue dogs are very anxious that their new owner will disappear and not return — after all their previous owner did just that from the dog’s point of view. However all of us need to be able to go out sometimes on errands where we can’t be accompanied by our pets, so new owners need to be forewarned that this may be a problem and prepared to take action to cope.

One useful tool is a dog crate. This should not degenerate into a prison where your dog is locked up for hours on end, but it does provide a way to keep him safe and your posessions undamaged, while you train him to be less anxious. Properly used, the crate will become a den area where your dog feels secure; knows you will return; can rest comfortably and knows he will have some special toys that he does not have access to anywhere else. If distress at being separated from you causes your dog’s house-training to be erratic, a crate lined with newspapers and standing on a washable floor will make cleaning up not too unpleasant.


There is some advice about training to relieve separation anxiety on the dog club site. It may also help (preferably before you acquire your rescue dog) to read some of the books which have been written about adopting a rescue dog, such as Understanding the Rescue Dog, Living with a rescued dog, or Second Chance: living with a rescued dog.



Anxiety Wrap for Dogs 12/12 by Dazzle Dog Delight | Blog Talk Radio

Anxiety Wrap for Dogs 12/12 by Dazzle Dog Delight | Blog Talk Radio


2013年9月27日星期五

Anxiety In Dogs |



If lately you’ve been noticing that your older dog is exhibiting ‘behavior problems’ , your pet may be developing a syndrome called ‘Canine Cognitive Dysfunction’ (CCD) or ‘Cognitive Dysfunction Syndrome’ (CDS). This dysfunction or syndrome affects older dogs the same way that Alzheimer’s disease affects humans. Recent medical studies have revealed that many older dogs with behavior problems have lesions in their brains similar to those that are seen in Alzheimer’s patients.



According to Pfizer Pharmaceutical, 62% of dogs who are 10 years of age and older will experience at least some of the following symptoms, which could indicate Canine Cognitive Dysfunction:


* Confusion or disorientation: your dog may get lost in his own back yard, or wander aimlessly in the house and become trapped in corners or behind furniture
* Decreased level of activity
* A decrease in attentiveness or long periods of just staring into space
* Doesn’t seem to recognize family members or old friends
* Pacing during the night, or a change in sleeping patterns, including inability to sleep at night
* Loss of house-trained faculties. A previously house trained dog may begin forgetting to let you know he has to go outside and may urinate or defecate inside the house when he would not have done so before.


Other signs of cognitive dysfunction may include:
* Anxiety and increased irritability
* An increase in barking or howling
* Lethargy or boredom
* Decreased ability to perform certain tasks or respond to commands.


To make a diagnosis of Canine Cognitive Dysfunction, your vet will have to first rule out any other possible causes of your dog’s behavior problems. For example, decreased activity may not be caused by Cognitive Canine Disorder but may be due to an advancing arthritic condition or hip dysplasia which can be successfully treated with Winston’s Joint System. Dogs suffering with joint diseases such as arthritis, bursitis, osteochondrosis (OCD), hip dysplasia and other degenerative problems with the shoulders, elbows and hocks can now experience immediate and long-term relief without drugs. Winston’s Joint System is a combination of three, totally-natural whole food supplements developed by a Naturopathic Doctor for his own dog. There are no side-effects because it’s all just good whole food. There are no dosage problems because your dog’s body uses only what it needs.


If your veterinarian determines that your older dog is suffering from Canine Cognitive Dysfunction, a treatment for this disorder will probably be recommended. The drugs Selegiline and Anipryl, although not a cure, can alleviate some of the symptoms of Canine Cognitive Dysfunction in older dogs. If your dog responds to either of these drugs, it will need to be treated daily for the rest of its life. As with all medications, there are side effects. It is important that you ask your vet about any possible side effects before deciding on treatment with these drugs.


Other management techniques may include the use of antioxidants or ‘senior’ diets. An excellent supplement for aging senior dogs is Winston’s Senior Complete Multi vitamin and mineral supplement, a powerful and complete once-daily multi vitamin for dogs 5 years and older. This complete multi vitamin contains almost 50 active ingredients from the healthiest sources available.


It is also important that older dogs with Canine Cognitive Dysfunction continue to receive regular exercise and play. If your older dog is experiencing behavior problems, talk to your veterinarian about ways to help your dog have a more happy and healthy life in his senior years.





If you want to stop excessive barking by your dog, don’t yell or scream at it. This almost never works and may cause it to bark even more. Instead try to get your dog’s attention with a clap or whistle if it won’t stop barking. When the barking has ceased, offer a tasty treat as a reward.



Dogs will be dogs, and most dogs will bark, whine and howl at times – it’s only natural. Dogs vocalize to communicate with humans and also to express themselves. There are times you want your dog to bark in order to warn you of potential danger or to protect you from harm.


However, loud and excessive barking is definitely a behavioral problem that needs to be addressed. Your dog needs to understand when to bark and when to be quiet, and it’s your job to teach your dog the difference.


When barking becomes problematic, you need to begin searching for solutions as soon as possible. The longer you wait, the harder it gets to curb bad behavior. With dedication and consistency, you can teach your dog to bark on command and also understand when it’s time to be quiet.


Dogs bark for various reasons. Contrary to the opinions of some, dogs do not bark just to annoy you and your neighbors, nor do they bark for spite or revenge. Dogs don’t bark just because they can (though it might seem that way at times). Certain dog breeds bark more than others – particularly smaller dogs.


Understanding why your dog barks excessively is the first stage to begin controlling its behavior. Dogs usually bark for the following reasons:


Warning or Alert: It’s natural for dogs to bark when someone comes to your door or when strangers walk by your house. Often just a car driving past can provoke a round of barking. Dogs will bark if they sense some type of threat and you’ll recognize this bark by its sharp, loud and authoritative tone.


Attention-seeking: Listen carefully to the different types of barking your dog does. You’ll soon be able to discern this unique bark and associate it with the meaning “Pay attention to me!” Some dogs will even whine and bark at the same time just to get attention.


Responding to Other Dogs: This can be a proverbial pain in the rear. One dog on your street – or whenever you happen to be walking your dog – will start barking, and one by one the rest of the dogs on the block join in.


Anxiety: Anxious barking, usually high-pitched and sometimes accompanied by whining, seems to be calming for many dogs. Listen carefully to your dog because it can be mistaken for the same type of barking common to dogs suffering from separation anxiety.


Playfulness or excitement: This type of barking is almost exclusively used by puppies and young dogs. Many dogs will bark in a delighted, contented way when playing with people or other dogs. Many dogs bark enthusiastically when they know you’re taking them for a walk or a ride in the car.


Boredom: The bark of a bored dog is likely to be annoying and sound a little sad. A bored dog will often bark simply to release excess energy, but the same sound can also mean your dog is lonely and wants companionship.


Once you determine the cause of your dog’s excessive barking, you can begin to control its unwanted behavior. The best way to prevent excessive barking is to remove potential sources of your dog’s behavior. You also want to be sure you don’t unintentionally encourage the barking.


If your dog displays signs of loneliness, avoid leaving it alone for long periods of time.


Don’t pet or feed your dog when its barking for attention or when the barking is due to anxiety. Your dog will interpret this as rewarding its behavior, and the result would be to encourage the barking.


Never let your dog run around outside, barking constantly, regardless of the reason. This is one of the fastest ways to turn neighbors into enemies and send an invitation to your animal shelter or police.


Dogs always bark for a reason. They are trying to tell you something, whether you’re ready to hear it or not. Pay attention to when and how your dog barks and take the time to work with your dog to reverse the bad behavior. It’s important to stop excessive barking by your dog if you (and probably your neighbors also) don’t want a restful night or peaceful day ruined by your dog barking excessively.


Dogs & Separation Anxiety

Dogs are the happiest when they are with their best pal-you.  Often people treat the symptoms of separation anxiety without understanding what this causing the behavior and fixing it at the root of the problem.


This article from the Humane Society addresses ways to help you help your dog.


Dogs with separation anxiety exhibit distress and behavior problems when they’re left alone. The most common behaviors include:



  • Digging and scratching at doors or windows in an attempt to reunite with their owners



  • Destructive chewing

  • Howling, barking, and whining

  • Urination and defecation (even with otherwise housetrained dogs)


Is it separation anxiety?


If most, or all, of the following statements are true about your dog, he may have a separation anxiety problem:



  • The behavior occurs primarily when he’s left alone and typically begins soon after you leave.

  • He follows you from room to room whenever you’re home.

  • He displays effusive, frantic greeting behaviors.

  • The behavior occurs whether he’s left alone for short or long periods.

  • He reacts with excitement, depression, or anxiety to your preparations to leave the house.


What causes separation anxiety


It’s not fully understood why some dogs suffer from separation anxiety and others don’t. But it’s important to realize that the destruction and house soiling that often occur with separation anxiety are part of a panic response. Your dog isn’t trying to punish you for leaving him alone.


Following are some common scenarios that can trigger separation anxiety:



  • A dog accustomed to constant human companionship is left alone for the first time.

  • A dog suffers a traumatic event (from his viewpoint), such as time at a shelter or boarding kennel.

  • There’s a change in the family’s routine or structure or the loss of a family member or other pet.


How to treat minor separation anxiety



  • Don’t make a big deal out of arrivals and departures. For example, when you arrive home, ignore your dog for the first few minutes then calmly pet him.
    Leave your dog with an article of clothing that smells like you, such as an old T-shirt that you’ve slept in recently.

  • Establish a safety cue—a word or action that you use every time you leave that tells your dog you’ll be back.

  • Consider using an over-the-counter calming product that may reduce fearfulness in dogs.


How to handle a more severe problem


Use the techniques outlined above along with desensitization training. Teach your dog the sit-stay and down-stay commands using positive reinforcement. This training will help him learn that he can remain calmly and happily in one place while you go to another room.


Create a “safe place” to limit your dog’s ability to be destructive. A safe place should:



  • Confine loosely rather than strictly (a room with a window and distractions rather than total isolation)

  • Contain busy toys for distraction

  • Have dirty laundry to lend a calming olfactory cue or other safety cues.


What to do in the meantime


It can take time for your dog to unlearn his panic response to your departures. To help you and your dog cope in the short term, consider the following interim solutions:



  • Ask your veterinarian about drug therapy. A good anti-anxiety drug shouldn’t sedate your dog but simply reduce his overall anxiety.

  • Take your dog to a doggie day care facility or kennel when you have to be away.

  • Leave your dog with a friend, family member, or neighbor when you’re away.

  • Take your dog to work with you, if possible.


What won’t help




  • Punishment. Punishment isn’t effective for treating separation anxiety and can make the situation worse. The destruction and house soiling that often occur with separation anxiety aren’t your dog’s revenge for being left alone: they’re part of a panic response.


  • Another dog. Getting your dog a companion usually doesn’t help an anxious dog because his anxiety is the result of his separation from you, not just the result of being alone.


  • Crating. Your dog will still engage in anxiety responses inside a crate, and he may urinate, defecate, howl, or even injure himself in an attempt to escape. Instead, create other kinds of “safe places” as described above.


  • Radio/TV noise. Leaving the radio or television on won’t help (unless the radio or TV is used as a safety cue).


  • Obedience training. While formal training is always a good idea, separation anxiety isn’t the result of disobedience or lack of training; therefore, it won’t help this particular issue.


The Thundershirt helps dogs with separation anxiety by gently swaddling them.  Learn more about Thundershirt.

Separation Anxiety in Dogs Part 1









Separation Anxiety in Dogs Part 1



Posted June 14th, 2012 by Ritzy












This is part one of a dog training technique that can help with dogs who have mild to moderate separation anxiety. There are three segments, part one, part two and a summary of techniques. ***Be sure to never leave the house with your dog tethered by a leash.*** This technique is not in the author’s book, but other techniques including building canine confidence and using calming signals are in the book and can help when trying to get an anxious dog to settle down. If you try the technique, please email me and let me know how things went. My email can be found at my website www.peggyswager.com
Video Rating: 4 / 5






























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2013年9月26日星期四

Seperation Anxiety in Dogs

Separation Anxiety


Since dogs are pack animals, it’s not surprising when a dog experiences anxiety at being left alone. With the right help, most dogs can learn to remain alone calmly for reasonable lengths of time. Conditioning a dog to be able to do this is a real kindness that makes the dog’s life more comfortable.


What is Separation Anxiety and What Isn’t?


A dog going through a normal stage of chewing to help the teeth properly develop is not experiencing separation anxiety. Leaving the dog alone with a houseful of temptations to ease the tooth discomfort is a recipe for disaster.


A dog having housetraining accidents when the dog was never fully housetrained or because the dog is being required to hold it for longer than the dog can do so is not separation anxiety.


When the first chewing stage is over and the pup seems housetrained, people tend to think it’s time to leave the pup alone loose in the house. Typically this might be around 5 to 7 months of age. A little time goes by, and suddenly the dog starts destructive chewing. This is due to normal tooth development, but you can turn it into separation anxiety if you handle it badly.


Be prepared for an immature dog to need a lot of help from you to develop proper chewing habits. Don’t leave the dog unsupervised in the presence of things that are valuable to you, or things that could harm a chewing dog, until the dog is truly ready. This comes after you’ve helped the dog develop reliable habits of always going for dog toys to chew and never for people stuff. It also requires some maturity in the dog, often age two years for larger breeds.


How to Give Your Pup or New Dog a Good Start


Getting your dog used to being alone without anxiety ideally begins in puppyhood. The pup’s breeder may have started the process by using crates to get each pup in the litter first used to sleeping in a crate along with other pups, and eventually sleeping alone in a crate. The crate time is integrated into the pup’s schedule so physical needs are met and the pup will not feel the need to go to the bathroom while crated. A foundation with the crate is more likely with top breeders who keep their pups longer and provide early socialization and training before placing them in homes. Such pups have had an excellent start in life.


Whether or not the pup has had prior conditioning to the crate, the first night in your home means the added stress of the pup being away from the canine and human family that has represented safety. It’s no wonder pups tend to make so much noise when left alone, calling out for someone to come and save them. After all, being left alone in the wild would mean death to a pup.


Puppies come with a full set of instincts that are refined by their experiences into the instincts that will become strongest in their adult lives. If you want to encourage the instinct of screaming for someone to come whenever the dog is left alone, just keep running to the pup every time the pup screams! Soon you will have created a pup who pitches a fit when left alone.


If you wait and wait while the pup screams and screams, and then you finally go to the pup, you have now created a pup who will scream even more persistently-because the pup has learned that you need a lot of screaming to get you to come, but you will eventually come. So, screaming for a long time pays. To avoid this problem, do NOT go to a pup who is in the act of making noise. Always wait until the pup is quiet before you go to the pup.


You can ease a pup’s conditioning to a crate by putting the crate in the room with a person while the pup gets used to sleeping in it. Ideally, crate time will be time the pup needs to rest anyway. Dogs sleep 14 or more hours a day. A crate needs to be the dog’s safe, relaxing haven, not a prison. The schedule will determine which it is.


Separation anxiety and extreme stress over being crated are highly likely in a dog who is confined to a crate for an abusive amount of time. Once this has been done, especially repeatedly, it is not always possible to rehabilitate the dog and make it able to rest calmly in a crate, so it’s important not to make this mistake.


Don’t ask a pup to hold it for longer than the number of hours equaling the pup’s age in months plus one. In other words, at 8 weeks, your pup needs someone to come home within 3 hours (two months plus one) to give the pup a potty break. At any age, make the top limit 8 hours.


Some dogs will never physically be able to hold it even 8 hours. Some will make it longer, but every time you ask a dog to do that, you’re taking a big risk of creating future separation anxiety. When you are home and awake, take the dog out often (at least once per hour until housetraining is complete), so that the dog’s elimination processes can make up for the lost time.


Leaving the pup with desirable toys helps reduce the risk of separation anxiety, too. Different dogs find different toys desirable. A pup may do well with three toys, offering a variety of chewing textures. Do your best to screen each item for safety with your particular pup before leaving the pup alone with it. If all goes well, your pup will be learning to chew appropriate items to satisfy chewing needs, learning to accept time alone calmly, and developing the physical ability to hold bowels and bladder for housetraining, all at the same time.


Pups and dogs need conditioning to separation from other dogs in the family. Keeping two dogs always together is not good for their long-term mental health. If you have multiple dogs, take each of them away from the other with you away from the home regularly. This will usually avoid the problem of a dog who experiences intense stress when separated from a dog packmate. Since such separations are unavoidable at times, it’s a great kindness to condition your dogs be able to handle them comfortably. It will also make managing your dogs much easier through the years.


Your Comings and Goings


With any age dog, you can do a lot to prevent separation anxiety, and to cure it once it occurs, by leaving the house calmly whenever you go, and coming home calmly whenever you return. This is difficult for many people to do.


Perhaps you feel guilty about leaving your dog alone. So you go out the door with a big emotional farewell. Or maybe you’re worried about what the dog might do while you’re gone, so you try a stern word in advance. Either way, you’ve just added anxiety to the dog’s experience of your leaving. Resist the temptation. Instead, calmly walk out the door.


The same problems happen in reverse when people come home; only this is the most emotionally loaded time, the time that causes the most problems. First, people love that insanely wild greeting dogs give. If you encourage this insanity, here’s what you get: a scratched door, damaged window treatments, a dog who may attack another dog, cat, or home furnishings when you’re just a little slower to get the door open, and a dog who is more prone to separation anxiety.


Is it worth messing up your dog just so you can get the ego boost of the dog acting like you’re the greatest person in the world in the craziest possible way? There are other ways a dog can show love and respect for you that are healthy. Come into your house quietly, and help your dog learn that your homecomings are normal, not reasons to go bonkers.


The second mistake people make when they return home is to punish-even scolding is punishment to a dog-for something that happened while they were gone. Now the dog is going to both anticipate and dread your return home. And your punishment will have taught the dog NOTHING, except to fear and distrust your reactions.


The dog’s submissive posture when faced with an angry owner convinces people that the dog “knows what he did wrong.” No, the dog does NOT know. The dog knows you’re angry, and does what dogs do to try to pacify an angry pack leader: the dog submits.


Avoid this guaranteed method of creating separation anxiety in your dog by leaving the dog in the proper situation where damage is not going to happen. Either confine the dog to a safe area, or confine your stuff where the dog can’t reach it.


Changes


Separation anxiety often results from changes in a dog’s life. A dog adopted from rescue or a shelter who has experienced traumatic changes of homes is a strong candidate for separation anxiety.


A family moving with the dog to a new home can trigger separation anxiety, especially if the move includes a change in the dog’s routine. A change in routine can trigger separation anxiety without moving, too, particularly if the new routine does not adequately meet the dog’s needs. One example would be a new household schedule that results in the dog having to wait too long between potty trips. It’s so easy to overlook a seemingly unimportant part of your routine that in actuality is essential for the dog.


Having a human or animal family member move out of the house, or a new one move in, can also trigger separation anxiety. Part of the reason can be the resulting change in the dog’s routine. People may be treating the dog differently, too. Try to break down the dog’s needs and schedule, and see what has changed, and how you might be able to improve it to better provide for the dog.


Severe Cases


Severe separation anxiety might be defined as a dog who is physically suffering. Sadly, you can create this situation by such human behaviors as going to your puppy in response to noise. The pup can become conditioned to virtually never give up screaming and clawing to get you to come, even when you won’t be home for hours.


Whatever the cause, dogs have hurt themselves badly “fighting” a crate in this manner. Dogs have also jumped through glass windows, ripped doors apart, broken into houses, and repeatedly jumped fences and run from the property.


Some dogs lose bladder and bowel control. This is understandable when you realize that instead of having the benefits of physical processes that quiet bowels and bladder during sleep-what happens when a dog rests calmly in a crate-the anxious dog is not only awake, but upset. If you come home and scold for damage or housetraining messes, the dog will be even more anxious the next time. This is a truly vicious cycle that many people fall into with their suffering dogs.


At the point where the dog is suffering, it can be advisable to get help for your dog from a veterinary prescription for medication to help with separation anxiety. Don’t expect miracles from medication. Without the proper behavior modification-human as well as canine-the medication is unlikely to work for the long term.


The goal is to use the medication on a temporary basis to relieve the dog’s suffering and help the dog relax enough to benefit from the behavior modification the people provide. You will likely need the help of a behavior specialist to develop the program of behavior modification that fits your family. A veterinary behavior specialist can both prescribe medication and provide you with a behavior modification program. Your regular veterinarian can help you find a specialist, if you need one.


Behavior Remedies


To help a dog develop the ability to remain alone comfortably, the dog also needs to be comfortable when the people ARE home. This means a well-ordered life including the right exercise, training, feeding schedule, grooming, bonding with the family, bathroom schedule, medical care, and the sundry other things that dogs require.


Some cases of separation anxiety happen because the family truly cannot provide for the dog’s basic needs. If this is the case with your situation, remember it’s not the dog’s fault. Seek help first through the source from which you got your dog-responsible breeder, rescue, shelter. There is often a lot more support available than you would ever imagine.


Done right, training helps a dog develop the confidence to remain calmly alone. Training also improves your bond with your dog, making the dog feel more secure that your home is permanent. This kind of training includes structure, and taking the dog away from the home to train and to practice. The outings are important in bonding the dog with you. There is also something about going OUT with you and coming BACK with you repeatedly that seems to help the dog work through the fears. A good, positive-method training class can work well, unless the dog or person has special needs. In that case, look for a good private trainer.


Conditioning the dog to rest calmly in a crate can take time. Keys can be short periods in the crate and giving treats while in the crate. Until the dog is comfortable in the crate, it’s essential not to confine the dog to the crate too long and trigger a panic that would undo all your good conditioning.


It also helps to leave your home and return in a short time, over and over, until the dog gets used to your comings and goings. The dog is picking up the pattern that when you leave, you will come back. Remember to keep all your comings and goings CALM.


Do take care of your dog’s food, water, and potty needs before and after your absences, but avoid high emotion in the ways you do this. For example, don’t take the dog for an intense and exhilarating exercise session, dash home, drop off the dog, and leave. You want the dog calm at the time you leave, not all wound up.


Similarly, if you must potty the dog immediately on returning home because of how long the dog has been alone, keep the outing low-key. Postpone feeding for at least a few minutes after your return. Remember that you don’t want the dog wildly anticipating your return, and food is pretty darned important to most dogs. Feed your dog at least twice a day, so that one meal doesn’t assume too much importance. This also reduces some health risks, such as seizure from low blood sugar, and gastric torsion from eating too much, too fast.


It helps some anxious dogs if you calmly present the dog with a special toy containing food, just as you leave. The idea is for the dog to wind down while enjoying this, and then sack out until you get home. A Kong toy with peanut butter inside can be a good choice.


Sometimes people try to solve separation anxiety by getting another dog as a companion for the anxious one. The result can be two dogs with separation anxiety, and the potential of a real wrecking crew! The best course with behavior problems is usually to work through one dog’s problems before adding another dog to the home.


The dog who has developed separation anxiety after the loss of a long-time dog companion can sometimes benefit from having another dog join the family. If the dog and the family are truly ready for another dog, and the right dog is selected, this does sometimes work.


Looking at things from a dog’s point of view is a great help in coping with separation anxiety. Sometimes it requires detective work to discover what is lacking in the dog’s care. This effort always pays off in a better life for both people and dogs.


www.veterinarypartner.com
Date Published: 3/5/2003 12:23:00 PM
Date Reviewed/Revised: 03/10/2008


2013年9月25日星期三

Anxiety and Stress in Dogs – The Role of Omega-3 Fatty Acids in Treating, Preventing Dog Anxiety and Stress















 

Anxiety is a very serious and increasingly common issue in dogs – in-fact it has become an epidemic issue. 




Anxiety when left unaddressed or when addressed in the wrong way can quickly increase in intensity. Anxiety may take many forms, separation anxiety, fear of unfamiliar inanimate or animate objects, sounds, weather – i.e. thunderstorms, or insecurity leading to aggressive-reactive behaviour.




The most effective and beneficial approach to solving your dog’s anxiety issues is definitely NOT medicating your dog with anti-depressants such as Doggie-Prozac. Doggie-Prozac will not cure your dog – in addition it can also cause very serious health issues, you can read about that here. On the other hand, ensuring that your dog has a sufficient daily intake of quality Omega-3 fatty acids can have a beneficial effect on your dog’s ability to overcome anxiety.












In order to successfully remedy anxiety, each factor that contributes to the condition must be addressed. My approach is two-fold  – during the course of a session:


  • My primary focus in curing anxiety in a dog is to observe, analyze and improve the dog’s peoples’ habits and communication skills;

  • Then once habits and communication are addressed it is time to look at the dog’s overall diet.
















Omega Fatty Acids are a good example of the gap between that actual ability of a kibble to meet a dog’s nutritional requirements vs. the dog owner’s expectations that he/she has purchased a nutritionally appropriate and complete product. Purchasing an expensive dog kibble (regardless if from a pet store or veterinary office) is not an assurance that your dog’s nutritional needs will be properly met.  




I have yet to find a dog kibble that comes close to providing the correct balance of Omega-3 fatty acids (Polyinsaturated Alpha-linolenic acid [ALA], Eicosapentaenoic acid [EPA] and Docosahexaenoic acid [DHA] vs. Omega 6-fatty acids. This means that you need to know how to make-up for the lack-of-balance of good fats in your dog’s diet.













EPA’s Importance In Proper Brain Function




A proper daily in-take of EPA can help your dog better handle stress…




EPA:


  • Increases the fluidity of cell membranes;

  • Improves communication between brain cells;

  • As such daily ingestion of enough EPA:


    • Works to support proper functioning of the brain, and;

    • Enables calming.






Ingesting too much of the Omega-6 fatty acid Arachidonic Acid (AA) causes cellular inflammation.



  • The brain is very sensitive to cellular inflammation. 

  • Cellular inflammation creates a breakdown in the signalling between cells. 

  • When breakdown occurs the brain cannot function at optimal levels.


Non-steroidal anti-inflammatory medicines are ineffective in treating brain cell inflammation as they cannot cross the blood-brain barrier that isolates the brain from undesirable substances in the blood-stream. 




When brain cells become inflamed the only substance that can protect these compromised cells is sufficient levels of Omega 3 fatty acids. 




When the level of Omega 3 fatty acids available to the brain are insufficient, neuro-inflammation is exacerbated and disruption of signalling between nerves becomes significant. 





The brain uses two Omega 3 fatty acids – DHA and EPA. While DHA is an important and necessary structural component of the brain, EPA is the primary anti-inflammatory Omega fatty acid for the brain. When used by the brain EPA has a short life-span. This means that the supply of EPA (via the blood stream to the brain) must be constantly present. For this reason it is very important to make sure that your dog is taking in a sufficient amount of EPA on a daily basis. 






Commercially manufactured dog kibble has relatively high levels of Omega-6 fatty acids and respectively low levels of Omega-3 fatty acids.


  • To make matters worse, when coupled with increased consumption of omega-6 fatty acids refined carbohydrates (such as wheat flour, rice and sugar):


    • Increase insulin production;

    • Which in-turn increases the amount of AA (the Omega-6 fatty acid which causes inflammation);

    • At the same time decreased consumption of EPA:


      • Results in an increased AA to EPA ratio;

      • Which further exacerbates inflammation.










DHA’s Importance To Brain Function




When the brain is not receiving sufficient daily amounts of DHA, serotonin levels are decreased. Decreased levels of serotonin are associated with anxiety.




Other Impacts on Brain Function, of Insufficient Intake of Omega-3 Fatty Acids




Omega-3 Deficiency Can:


  • Compromise the blood-brain barrier. 


    • This barrier protects the brain from uninhibited flow of undesirable substances/matter into the brain;


  • Decrease normal blood flow to the brain;

  • Decrease phosphatidylserine (PS) levels; 


    • PS is a naturally occurring anti-depressant, and also helps improve the ability to concentrate.






In Conclusion…



If you are feeding your dog commercially manufactured dog kibble:


  • I encourage you to read the food manufactures’ label,and;

  • Check the Omega-3 vs. Omega-6 fatty acid percentage, and; 

  • Then supplement your dog’s diet with Omega-3 fatty acids to suit. 


If you are feeding your dog a raw diet or homemade dog food you will still need to supplement your dog’s intake of Omega-3 fatty acids.


  • You can read more about Omega Fatty Acids for your dog:

  • All of the other ways Omega-3 fatty acids support your dog’s health;

  • Options for providing Omega-3 fatty acids in your dog’s daily diet;
    by clicking here.




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Related Articles

For related and additional articles on dog and cat, care, health, training, nutrition and animal advocacy go to thispage.




Feel free to leave a comment below – if your comment is polite, informative etc. I will publish it. If your comment is a quick question, I will answer it if time permits…




If you require additional assistancewith your dogs you can engage me to…

1.0) Do an in-person session(see details below)

2.0)  Do a phone/email consultation (see details below)




1.0) In-Person Sessions are available to you if you live in the region of Ottawa-Gatineau, the Ottawa Valley and Region.

(i.e. Ottawa, Hull, Alymer, Orleans, Bells Corners, Manotick, Vars, Kanata, Stittsville, Smith Falls, Fitzroy, Carp, Arnprior, Renfrew, etc.) 

  and surrounding areas 

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Or you can – if your situation requires it, purchase whatever block of time you want (i.e. multiple hours).




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You call me at the following number 613-622-7958, at the mutually agreed upon consultation time.




3.0 ALL OTHER GLOBAL LOCATIONS (i.e. UK. Asia, etc.):

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The choice is yours;

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You call me at the following number 613-622-7958, at the mutually agreed upon consultation time.




To Set-up a Consultation

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  Payment options as noted above are:

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Whether you are experiencing dog behavior problems and would like assistance, or just want to bring your dog up to be a well-balanced canine -  I offer both a local and international service for people with one or multiple dogs. 

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Notes:

Please note – this article is for information purposes and is not a substitute for an in-person Session with me. When working with dogs I use many techniques – it is important to note that this article may touch on one or several techniques but not all. I select the technique that I use for a particular dog based on my observations of the dog and an intuitive, instinctive assessment of that dog’s and its human’s individual requirements. For example when I am working with a dog that is hyper sensitive and very physically reactive I will not use voice or touch. I use a lot of therapeutic touch on some dogs, others require the use of herding techniques and so on. Each and every technique must be combined with:



  • an understanding of the real intelligence, sensitivity and capability of dogs;


  • an understanding of how to read a dog’s face and a dog’s overall body language;


  • an understanding of the full spectrum of ways that humans communicate and dogs communicate; 


  • understanding and recognition of the individual that is each dog – no two dogs are the same…taking a ‘cookie cutter’ approach to techniques is not the way to work with a dog;


  • a complete recognition and understanding of all the elements that feed a behaviour and create an issue:



    •  the vast majority of people can only identify one or two elements…which vastly inhibits the ability to resolve behavior issues;


    • behaviours do not exist in isolation – there are always many elements that feed a single behaviour, there all always multiple behaviours that create a behavioral issue;



  • self-restraint and discipline on the part of the human who is directing the dog;


  • sensitivity, awareness, intuition, instinct and timing on the part of the human who is directing the dog;



    • to understand, connect with and adapt quickly and effectively to a dog’s learning requirements you must be able to employ the same tools a dog uses – acute sensitivity, awareness, instinct, intuition and timing;



  • kindness, endurance, consideration, patience, persistence, perspective, the ability and know how to let the past go, the ability to set realistic expectations at any one point in time;


  • the creation of structure, rules, boundaries and limitations for each situation at the macro and micro level;


  • understanding of all the elements that make up an instruction and direction to a dog…there are multiple steps involved in an instruction – not just one!


  • absolute honesty – if you cannot be honest with yourself you will not be able to communicate clearly with a dog.


These are just some of the techniques that I teach my clients – it is a holistic, all-encompassing approach. If you are missing any one element of the above mentioned your success rate will be affected to one degree or another in implementing the techniques offered in the article presented above.