2013年9月27日星期五

Thundershirt In US | Best Solution For Dog Anxiety


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  • Fear of thunder / fireworks

  • Separation anxiety

  • Travel anxiety

  • Crate training

  • Problem Barking

  • Hyperactivity

  • Leash pulling

  • Noise anxiety

  • And more


Whether for thunder, fireworks, or any other sound, Thundershirt can help your dog’s noise anxiety. And no training is required! For noise anxiety, just put on Thundershirt and observe the results. Over 85% of Thundershirt users see significant improvement in noise anxiety symptoms. Most dogs respond with the very first usage; some need 2-3 usages before showing significant improvement. If you are aware of a noise trigger coming (e.g. thunderstorm on its way), put your Thundershirt on your dog prior to your dog becoming anxious. But… it is fine to put Thundershirt on AFTER your dog has become anxious; you will still see good results. In most cases, it is fine to leave your dog in her Thundershirt for extended periods of time. Many Thundershirt dog owners will put their dogs in their Thundershirts prior to going to work if a storm is forecasted during the day.





With its patent-pending design, Thundershirt’s gentle, constant pressure has a dramatic calming effect for most dogs if they are anxious, fearful or over-excited. Based on surveys completed by over two thousand customers, over 80% of dogs show significant improvement in symptoms when using Thundershirt. Thundershirt is already helping tens of thousands of dogs around the world, and is recommended by thousands of veterinarians and dog trainers.


As for WHY Thundershirt’s gentle pressure works to calm a dog, experts such as Dr. Temple Grandin believe that pressure has a calming effect on the nervous system. Using pressure to relieve anxiety has been a common practice for years. For example:



  • TTouch dog trainers use pressure to address a wide variety of anxieties.

  • Veterinarians use pressure to relax cattle when they are administering vaccinations.

  • People with autism use pressure to relieve their persistent anxiety.

  • Children with certain behavioral problems use pressure shirts and weighted vests to relax and focus.

  • Parents use swaddling to calm an inconsolable newborn infant.


Until now, there just hasn’t been a well-designed, inexpensive pressure wrap commonly used for dog anxiety. Thundershirt is changing that! Thousands of veterinarians and dog trainers now recommend Thundershirts for their anxiety cases.


Teach Your Dog to Be Home Alone in Five Steps




Puppy on its bed.

Dogs are social animals, enjoy company and dislike being alone. We must teach our puppies to be home alone to avoid serious problems later (photo by Roger Abrantes).



You can teach your dog to be home alone in five steps. The earlier you begin, the better.


Number one canine problem behavior is “home alone.” Don’t panic if someone tells you that your dog suffers from separation anxiety. It’s probably not the case. Anxiety is a serious disorder and most dogs don’t have any anxiety when left alone. They are either under-stimulated and burn their surplus energy by wrecking the furniture, they’re having fun and don’t know that it is wrong to destroy human possessions, or the owners have not taught them the desired routines when left home alone. There is a good chance that you can solve the problem with my five steps program.


You’re not alone. Problems with dogs that can’t be home alone (I call it CHAP=Canine Home Alone Problem) is the most common problem all over the world when we keep dogs as pets. Everybody seems to have a different idea as how to solve the problem. Remember the principle: too many cooks spoil the broth. If you choose to follow some other method, please do it and don’t even bother reading the following. If you choose to follow my five steps method, stick to it and don’t listen to what others tell you.


Teach your dog to be home alone in five steps:




  • DLO means desired learning objective.


  • QC means Quality Control and indicates the number of times in a row (or similar criteria) you must have accomplished your DLO successfully before you move to the next step.


1. Teach the dog to associate the bed (crate, blanket, spot, or whatever you have chosen) with positive experiences.


DLO: The dog likes to lie down on the bed. 


QC: The dog goes often and voluntarily to its bed.



  • Throw a couple of treats on the bed of the dog (without the dog seeing it) whenever there are none left.

  • Whenever the dog lies on the bed, reinforce it verbally (don’t exaggerate, so that the dog gets up).

  • Sometimes, pet the dog when it lies on the bed (calmly).

  • Send the dog to bed with a particular signal, e.g. “bed” 10-20 times daily.

  • Send the dog to its bed often when you watch TV, read the news, do computer work, etc.


2. Teach the dog meaning of the word “bed.”


DLO: The dog goes to the bed after you say “bed” without any problems.


QC: Ten successive correct behaviors.



  • Send the dog to the bed with the word “bed” by pointing to the bed or throwing a treat on the bed.

  • Use only the word “bed.” Don’t say anything else.

  • Reinforce it verbally, calmly so it remains on the bed.


3. The dog lies down on the bed even if you walk away.


DLO: The dog lies down on the bed even if you walk away. 


QC: Ten successive correct behaviors.



  • Send the dog to the bed with the word “bed.”

  • Reinforce it verbally, calmly so it remains on the bed.

  • Stop reinforcing it immediately if it should leave within 10 seconds and ignore it for a couple of minutes. (Important: those two minutes must be particularly boring for the dog).



  • Start all over until the dog remains on the bed even if you walk away.


4. Teach the dog to stay on the bed.


DLO: The dog lies on the bed for three minutes after you leave the room.


QC: Ten successive correct behaviors.



  • Reinforce the dog verbally as soon as it lies on the bed after you said “bed.” Be calm.

  • When the dog lies quietly on the bed, leave the room for two seconds, then come back.



  • Repeat, leaving the room at irregular intervals and for irregular periods, e.g. 5 s, 30 s, 4 s, 1 minute, etc.

  • If the dog remains on the bed, do nothing.

  • Should the dog leave its bed, send it back and start all over.


5.  Teach the dog to stay on the bed when you leave the room and close the door.


DLO: You can leave the dog and close the door without any problem.


QC:  Ten successive correct behaviors.



  • As soon as you can leave the room three minutes without the dog leaving its bed, repeat procedures in point 4 but beginning to close the door.

  • The first times, do not close the door, only touch it.

  • The following times, leave the door ajar.

  • Then, leave the room, close the door for two seconds, open it and enter the room. If all is all right, do not pay attention to the dog. Otherwise, start all over with point 5.

  • Finally, leave the room, close the door, stay out for irregular periods, open it and enter the room. If all is all right, do not pay attention to the dog.


Maintaining the good behavior



  • Even when you’re home, leave the dog alone sometimes. Do not pay attention to it all the time.

  • Always stimulate the dog properly before leaving. Remember: too little and too much are equally wrong.

  • Give the dog something to do when you leave. You don’t even need to invest in expensive toys. A plastic bottle full of treats will keep the dog busy for a while figuring out how to take them out (watch the dog the first couple of times and encourage it, if necessary, to toss the bottle around and not bite it).

  • Place the dog’s bed in a central place in the house (living room). Most dogs don’t like to feel isolated.

  • Continue using “bed” and continue making the bed attractive with occasional treats, verbal reinforcing and petting (all very calmly).

  • Make sure the bed is not too clean (most dogs don’t appreciate our flagrance drenched laundry), nor too dirty and is doggy-comfortable.

  • Pick up your keys often (or put on your shoes, cap or whatever you normally do before you leave) so that the dog disassociates these cues with being left alone.


Here is some explanation for those of you interested in the principles of these five-steps method:



  • We create a positive association with the bed so that the dog will go often and voluntarily to its bed.

  • We get the dog used to lie on the bed when we are at home either relaxing or doing our home work. After all, the ideal dog is the dog that it quiet at home and active when out.

  • We teach the dog the meaning of the word “bed.”

  • We get the dog used to us leaving the room and coming back as a normal routine.

  • We teach the dog to associate the door with a normal routine.

  • We create a routine for the dog that when there’s nothing to do at home, the best is to go to bed.


You maximize your chances of speedy success if:



  • The dog sleeps on its bed at night and (even better) if it doesn’t sleep in the same room as you.

  • The dog is routinely well stimulated (under-stimulated dogs are more difficult to teach to be home alone)

  • The dog is not hyper-active and over-stimulated (over-stimulated dogs have difficulties in remaining in the same spot for longer periods of time).


Important for you:



  • Be calm no matter what you do.

  • Advance step by step.

  • Be patient.

  • Control your emotions and behavior when you succeed as well as when you fail.

  • If you haven’t anything important to say to the dog, be quiet.

  • It’s your responsibility alone to understand and implement this five-steps program and to adjust them if needed, not the dog’s.

  • If my five steps method don’t seem to solve the problem, it may be that your dog shows genuine separation anxiety in which case you must contact a competent specialist.


Enjoy training your dog and remember that you train your dog primarily for the dog’s sake, not yours!


R-







How to Break a Dog of Separation Anxiety

How to Break a Dog of Separation Anxiety


A dog with separation anxiety can act out in many ways. Some dogs will urinate or defecate while others chew on furniture or other things around the house. Excessive barking or howling and trying to escape are also signs of separation anxiety. Aside from the destruction this causes to the home, it can also result in injury to the dog. Separation anxiety sometimes starts as soon as the dog picks up the clues that it’s owner is getting ready to leave and accelerates once it’s alone.


Instructions


    1

    Visit the veterinarian to make sure there are no underlying health problems that may be causing the behavior. Digestive or urinary issues should be ruled out if these problems seem to surface when the dog is left alone.


    2


    Give the dog a housebreaking refresher. Make sure the dog knows where it is appropriate to relieve itself and let him know when he does it correctly by showing positive reinforcement. Pet the dog and tell them they were good in a calm and positive tone.


    3


    Check to see if the dog is teething. In younger dogs teething could be the reason they are destroying furniture or other things in the home when left alone. If this is the issue, leave the dog with chew toys or a Kong to keep them occupied while they are alone. A Kong is a dog toy that can be stuffed with treats or peanut butter. Give the dog this special toy or treat only when they are being left alone. This way it will associate being left alone with a treat instead of fear or anxiety.


    4


    Desensitize the dog to being alone. Make sure the dog has a comfortable environment. It should have its own bed or blanket. Also, giving the dog an article of your clothing such as an old t-shirt that has your scent on it may offer some comfort when it’s alone. Make sure this is something you no longer care about in case the dog destroys it. Leave for short periods of time so the dog can understand you’re coming back. Gradually increase the time so it can slowly get used to being alone.


    5


    Vary your routine when getting ready to leave the house. If the dog sees you getting your coat and keys and starts to get agitated because it knows that you are leaving, change your routine. “…Many individuals consider that it is essential to get dog training tips preceding to acquiring their pets. Some individuals could find this interesting but a lot of people may recognize that this is a great tip to follow. The problem with a number of pet owners is they will get a dog and then find out that they are simply not suitable to take care of them. Ultimately, they would depart their pets in order to reestablish their past lives. These dog training tips can let people know what they have to handle and if they have the time to coach their dogs. These suggestions could be found on Secrets To Dog Training. By using the time to conduct correct dog training, you will delight in a lifetime of peaceful friendship with your “…. Put your coat or briefcase in a different place or leave by a different door.


    6


    Leave a radio on so the dog is less likely to hear outside noises that may stress or frighten them. Be sure to tune it to a station that has soothing music to help the dog relax.


    7


    Exercise your dog. Make sure your dog is getting enough exercise. This can go a long way in calming separation anxiety. A dog that is well exercised is more likely to rest or sleep when left alone. Taking the dog for a walk or jog or just throwing a ball around can use up some of its energy before you leave the house.


    8


    Adopt a friend. Some dogs do better if they have another dog companion. This is a big decision and one that you should consider carefully before deciding to bring another dog into your household.











  • Separation Anxiety In Dogs How To Treat Dog Separation Anxiety


    www.dog-obedience-training-review.com/separation-anxiety-in-dogs.html


    Separation Anxiety in dogs is the biggest dog behavior problem to overcome. Dog separation anxiety is treatable and you can stop the barking, digging, chewing and











  • Separation Anxiety In Dogs How To Treat It


    www.petlibrary.co.uk/1/separation-anxiety-in-dogs-how-to-treat-it


    Separation anxiety is an enormous problem in the canine world. This article discusses ways us dog lovers can ideally prevent separation anxiety in dogs or at











  • How to Cure A Dog Separation Anxiety Problem eHow


    www.ehow.com Pets Dogs Dog Training


    Dog Separation anxiety can be evidenced in many ways – your dog may turn in circles when he thinks you’re leaving (or coming back), he may bark or whine incessantly …











  • How to Deal with Separation Anxiety in Dogs


    puppydog101.com/how-to-deal-with-separation-anxiety-in-dogs


    If your dog has prolonged, severe anxiety problems, it is important to address it right away. Here you will learn how to deal with separation anxiety in dogs.











  • Anxiety Symptoms in Dogs How To Deal With Your Dog’s Separation


    www.youtube.com/watch?v=idDpAFQct0s


    separation anxiety barking – dog anxiety medication – dogs separation anxiety Nervous Scared Dog Anxiety Behaviour Problems Instant Download: http …











  • How to treat separation anxiety in dogs – by Diane Garrod


    dog-training.helium.com/how-to/12168-how-to-treat-separation


    Always ask WHY a dog is anxious, stressed, and tense whether you are around the house or your pet is home alone. Dogs can have varying levels of separation anxiety











  • How to Stop Dog Barking From Separation Anxiety


    ezinearticles.com/?How-to-Stop-Dog-Barking-From-Separation-Anxiety&…


    Aug 24, 2008 If your dog barks the moment you leave the house, it’s extremely likely that your dog suffers from separation anxiety. To stop dog barking from separation











  • How To Solve Dog Separation Anxiety With Dog Crate Training


    ezinearticles.com/?How-To-Solve-Dog-Separation-Anxiety-With-Dog


    Nov 09, 2007 Are you plagued with horrible constant whining, barking, or howling from dog separation anxiety? Here’s how to use dog crate training to solve your problem …











  • How to Cure Your Dog’s Separation Anxiety – ABC News


    abcnews.go.com GMA


    Sep 29, 2006 What is separation anxiety? Separation anxiety happens when a dog becomes stressed each and every time he or she is left alone. Typically the dog











  • How to Treat Your Dog’s Separation Anxiety eHow


    www.ehow.com Pets Dogs Dogs as Pets


    Barking, whining, escaping, destructive behavior or, in severe cases, self-mutilation can be your dog’s way of expressing anxiety over your absence. Other People …




Separation Anxiety in Dogs Part 1









Separation Anxiety in Dogs Part 1



Posted June 14th, 2012 by Ritzy












This is part one of a dog training technique that can help with dogs who have mild to moderate separation anxiety. There are three segments, part one, part two and a summary of techniques. ***Be sure to never leave the house with your dog tethered by a leash.*** This technique is not in the author’s book, but other techniques including building canine confidence and using calming signals are in the book and can help when trying to get an anxious dog to settle down. If you try the technique, please email me and let me know how things went. My email can be found at my website www.peggyswager.com
Video Rating: 4 / 5






























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2013年9月26日星期四

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Ian Dunbar Seminar: Problems in the Adult Dog

Ian’s message on Friday was simple: you can predict puppy problems, and if you start young enough, you can prevent them, too. Ian believes that after 12 weeks of age, it becomes much, much more difficult, and once a dog reaches adolescence at roughly 18 weeks, it’s almost impossible. Despite this focus on preventing problems, he did talk a bit about problems adult dogs have, and gave a very brief overview on working with those issues.


One of the most interesting things was that he categorized dog problems in two categories: behavior problems, and temperament problems. Behavior problems are things that the dogs do, and include house soiling, chewing on inappropriate items, digging, and barking excessively. Temperament problems are things the dogs have, and include fear, aggression, hyperactivity and shyness. Ian says that even though behavior problems are far easier to fix through training, people are far more likely to surrender these dogs. Conversely, despite the fact that temperament problems are incredibly difficult to change, people are far more willing to live with dogs that have them.


Although I was intrigued by this distinction, I’m not sure how I feel about it. On one hand, I agree that many behavior problems are due to a simple lack of training. On the other, it seems difficult to parse out which category a dog fits in, especially since temperament problems must be expressed through behavior. While Ian acknowledged that temperament may affect a dog’s behavior, a focus on behavior alone seems to oversimplify what could be a complex issue.


For example, Ian believes that separation anxiety is more likely to be an owner-absent problem instead of true anxiety. He explained that owner-absent problems happen because of excessive punishment for naughty-but-fun behaviors like barking a lot or chewing on things without instructing the dog what he ought to do instead. Since dogs are smart and want to avoid punishment, they wait to have fun until after their owner leaves, which leads the owner to believe that the problem is separation anxiety.


It does seem like people throw the term “separation anxiety” around pretty casually, and I’ve certainly run across people attributing anxiety to a dog that simply doesn’t know what is expected of him. Even so, that doesn’t negate the fact that there are dogs who are truly anxious, and I felt like Ian minimized this.


I had a similar reaction when he discussed compulsivity and hyperactivity in dogs. Ian said that he thinks that true OCDs or ADHDs are extremely rare in dogs, and that people use these terms to label their dogs as an excuse not to train them. He made treatment sound very simple by recommending that people reward the cessation of the unwanted behavior. The dog will then choose to disengage from the obsessive or hyper behavior in order to receive the reward, and the duration will reduce as a result.


I cannot agree with this. Maisy has some obsessive tendencies, and I do not believe it is possible for her to disengage from light-chasing behavior unless the stimulus is removed. For example, even though Maisy hates swimming, I once saw her jump off a dock to chase the light glinting on the lake’s waves. I very much had the impression that she wasn’t thinking: her entire demeanor changed before she jumped. She became frantic and seemed out of control. I don’t think she chose to jump. I think her brain forced her to.


Ian also recommended redirecting obsessive behaviors to more acceptable behaviors, such as repetitively licking or chewing on a Kong. He said this not only reinforces lying down quietly, but that it also allows the dog to engage in a more appropriate behavior while still getting the endorphin release that comes with compulsive behaviors. But I don’t see how this solves the problem. An obsessive behavior is a problem because it interferes with the dog’s ability to engage in normal life activities. Redirecting the focus of the obsessive behavior does not change this.


And then, there’s the topic of aggression. Ian actually said quite a bit about aggression, so I’ll cover it in more depth another day, but basically, he said there’s absolutely no excuse for fear-based aggression or dog-to-human aggression, with the implication that it is due to a lack of socialization in puppyhood. He acknowledged that there may be an excuse for dog-dog aggression, and I assume he meant that it may be genetic.


I’m mostly okay with this, but I became concerned when he talked about treatment. He said that he can jump start the process by doing “a bit of flooding” in a growl class. I’m not sure what he meant by flooding, but that statement set off alarm bells for me. He went on to say that most of the time he can have dogs off-leash and interacting in a growl class within 45 minutes! While I understand that leashes can contribute to the problem, he made it sound like it’s much easier to fix than it really is. I also have to wonder if the “bit of flooding” resulted in shut down dogs, which is why he was able to get them off leash so easily.


All of this is really captures the problems I had with the seminar as a whole. Ian’s clearly a very smart man, has had a great deal of experience, and has lots to offer dog owners. I respect him a great deal, and think he’s done a lot for the field of dog training. Despite that, his way of lecturing utilized stories and examples that, while engaging, resulted in gross oversimplifications and even seeming contradictions. For example, later on, in order to prove his point that it’s better to spend the time socializing puppies, he said that rehabbing an aggressive dog takes a very long time. This seems to be at odds with the idea that he can have dogs off-leash so quickly in his growl classes.


I know that his focus is the average pet owner, and as a result, he speaks simply in order to reach them. Even so, I would have greatly preferred more a more in-depth and critical analysis of the issues he brought up, especially since I think he had a lot of very good, valid points to make. Unfortunately, he made them so simply that I’m afraid he undermined his own message.


Seperation Anxiety in Dogs

Separation Anxiety


Since dogs are pack animals, it’s not surprising when a dog experiences anxiety at being left alone. With the right help, most dogs can learn to remain alone calmly for reasonable lengths of time. Conditioning a dog to be able to do this is a real kindness that makes the dog’s life more comfortable.


What is Separation Anxiety and What Isn’t?


A dog going through a normal stage of chewing to help the teeth properly develop is not experiencing separation anxiety. Leaving the dog alone with a houseful of temptations to ease the tooth discomfort is a recipe for disaster.


A dog having housetraining accidents when the dog was never fully housetrained or because the dog is being required to hold it for longer than the dog can do so is not separation anxiety.


When the first chewing stage is over and the pup seems housetrained, people tend to think it’s time to leave the pup alone loose in the house. Typically this might be around 5 to 7 months of age. A little time goes by, and suddenly the dog starts destructive chewing. This is due to normal tooth development, but you can turn it into separation anxiety if you handle it badly.


Be prepared for an immature dog to need a lot of help from you to develop proper chewing habits. Don’t leave the dog unsupervised in the presence of things that are valuable to you, or things that could harm a chewing dog, until the dog is truly ready. This comes after you’ve helped the dog develop reliable habits of always going for dog toys to chew and never for people stuff. It also requires some maturity in the dog, often age two years for larger breeds.


How to Give Your Pup or New Dog a Good Start


Getting your dog used to being alone without anxiety ideally begins in puppyhood. The pup’s breeder may have started the process by using crates to get each pup in the litter first used to sleeping in a crate along with other pups, and eventually sleeping alone in a crate. The crate time is integrated into the pup’s schedule so physical needs are met and the pup will not feel the need to go to the bathroom while crated. A foundation with the crate is more likely with top breeders who keep their pups longer and provide early socialization and training before placing them in homes. Such pups have had an excellent start in life.


Whether or not the pup has had prior conditioning to the crate, the first night in your home means the added stress of the pup being away from the canine and human family that has represented safety. It’s no wonder pups tend to make so much noise when left alone, calling out for someone to come and save them. After all, being left alone in the wild would mean death to a pup.


Puppies come with a full set of instincts that are refined by their experiences into the instincts that will become strongest in their adult lives. If you want to encourage the instinct of screaming for someone to come whenever the dog is left alone, just keep running to the pup every time the pup screams! Soon you will have created a pup who pitches a fit when left alone.


If you wait and wait while the pup screams and screams, and then you finally go to the pup, you have now created a pup who will scream even more persistently-because the pup has learned that you need a lot of screaming to get you to come, but you will eventually come. So, screaming for a long time pays. To avoid this problem, do NOT go to a pup who is in the act of making noise. Always wait until the pup is quiet before you go to the pup.


You can ease a pup’s conditioning to a crate by putting the crate in the room with a person while the pup gets used to sleeping in it. Ideally, crate time will be time the pup needs to rest anyway. Dogs sleep 14 or more hours a day. A crate needs to be the dog’s safe, relaxing haven, not a prison. The schedule will determine which it is.


Separation anxiety and extreme stress over being crated are highly likely in a dog who is confined to a crate for an abusive amount of time. Once this has been done, especially repeatedly, it is not always possible to rehabilitate the dog and make it able to rest calmly in a crate, so it’s important not to make this mistake.


Don’t ask a pup to hold it for longer than the number of hours equaling the pup’s age in months plus one. In other words, at 8 weeks, your pup needs someone to come home within 3 hours (two months plus one) to give the pup a potty break. At any age, make the top limit 8 hours.


Some dogs will never physically be able to hold it even 8 hours. Some will make it longer, but every time you ask a dog to do that, you’re taking a big risk of creating future separation anxiety. When you are home and awake, take the dog out often (at least once per hour until housetraining is complete), so that the dog’s elimination processes can make up for the lost time.


Leaving the pup with desirable toys helps reduce the risk of separation anxiety, too. Different dogs find different toys desirable. A pup may do well with three toys, offering a variety of chewing textures. Do your best to screen each item for safety with your particular pup before leaving the pup alone with it. If all goes well, your pup will be learning to chew appropriate items to satisfy chewing needs, learning to accept time alone calmly, and developing the physical ability to hold bowels and bladder for housetraining, all at the same time.


Pups and dogs need conditioning to separation from other dogs in the family. Keeping two dogs always together is not good for their long-term mental health. If you have multiple dogs, take each of them away from the other with you away from the home regularly. This will usually avoid the problem of a dog who experiences intense stress when separated from a dog packmate. Since such separations are unavoidable at times, it’s a great kindness to condition your dogs be able to handle them comfortably. It will also make managing your dogs much easier through the years.


Your Comings and Goings


With any age dog, you can do a lot to prevent separation anxiety, and to cure it once it occurs, by leaving the house calmly whenever you go, and coming home calmly whenever you return. This is difficult for many people to do.


Perhaps you feel guilty about leaving your dog alone. So you go out the door with a big emotional farewell. Or maybe you’re worried about what the dog might do while you’re gone, so you try a stern word in advance. Either way, you’ve just added anxiety to the dog’s experience of your leaving. Resist the temptation. Instead, calmly walk out the door.


The same problems happen in reverse when people come home; only this is the most emotionally loaded time, the time that causes the most problems. First, people love that insanely wild greeting dogs give. If you encourage this insanity, here’s what you get: a scratched door, damaged window treatments, a dog who may attack another dog, cat, or home furnishings when you’re just a little slower to get the door open, and a dog who is more prone to separation anxiety.


Is it worth messing up your dog just so you can get the ego boost of the dog acting like you’re the greatest person in the world in the craziest possible way? There are other ways a dog can show love and respect for you that are healthy. Come into your house quietly, and help your dog learn that your homecomings are normal, not reasons to go bonkers.


The second mistake people make when they return home is to punish-even scolding is punishment to a dog-for something that happened while they were gone. Now the dog is going to both anticipate and dread your return home. And your punishment will have taught the dog NOTHING, except to fear and distrust your reactions.


The dog’s submissive posture when faced with an angry owner convinces people that the dog “knows what he did wrong.” No, the dog does NOT know. The dog knows you’re angry, and does what dogs do to try to pacify an angry pack leader: the dog submits.


Avoid this guaranteed method of creating separation anxiety in your dog by leaving the dog in the proper situation where damage is not going to happen. Either confine the dog to a safe area, or confine your stuff where the dog can’t reach it.


Changes


Separation anxiety often results from changes in a dog’s life. A dog adopted from rescue or a shelter who has experienced traumatic changes of homes is a strong candidate for separation anxiety.


A family moving with the dog to a new home can trigger separation anxiety, especially if the move includes a change in the dog’s routine. A change in routine can trigger separation anxiety without moving, too, particularly if the new routine does not adequately meet the dog’s needs. One example would be a new household schedule that results in the dog having to wait too long between potty trips. It’s so easy to overlook a seemingly unimportant part of your routine that in actuality is essential for the dog.


Having a human or animal family member move out of the house, or a new one move in, can also trigger separation anxiety. Part of the reason can be the resulting change in the dog’s routine. People may be treating the dog differently, too. Try to break down the dog’s needs and schedule, and see what has changed, and how you might be able to improve it to better provide for the dog.


Severe Cases


Severe separation anxiety might be defined as a dog who is physically suffering. Sadly, you can create this situation by such human behaviors as going to your puppy in response to noise. The pup can become conditioned to virtually never give up screaming and clawing to get you to come, even when you won’t be home for hours.


Whatever the cause, dogs have hurt themselves badly “fighting” a crate in this manner. Dogs have also jumped through glass windows, ripped doors apart, broken into houses, and repeatedly jumped fences and run from the property.


Some dogs lose bladder and bowel control. This is understandable when you realize that instead of having the benefits of physical processes that quiet bowels and bladder during sleep-what happens when a dog rests calmly in a crate-the anxious dog is not only awake, but upset. If you come home and scold for damage or housetraining messes, the dog will be even more anxious the next time. This is a truly vicious cycle that many people fall into with their suffering dogs.


At the point where the dog is suffering, it can be advisable to get help for your dog from a veterinary prescription for medication to help with separation anxiety. Don’t expect miracles from medication. Without the proper behavior modification-human as well as canine-the medication is unlikely to work for the long term.


The goal is to use the medication on a temporary basis to relieve the dog’s suffering and help the dog relax enough to benefit from the behavior modification the people provide. You will likely need the help of a behavior specialist to develop the program of behavior modification that fits your family. A veterinary behavior specialist can both prescribe medication and provide you with a behavior modification program. Your regular veterinarian can help you find a specialist, if you need one.


Behavior Remedies


To help a dog develop the ability to remain alone comfortably, the dog also needs to be comfortable when the people ARE home. This means a well-ordered life including the right exercise, training, feeding schedule, grooming, bonding with the family, bathroom schedule, medical care, and the sundry other things that dogs require.


Some cases of separation anxiety happen because the family truly cannot provide for the dog’s basic needs. If this is the case with your situation, remember it’s not the dog’s fault. Seek help first through the source from which you got your dog-responsible breeder, rescue, shelter. There is often a lot more support available than you would ever imagine.


Done right, training helps a dog develop the confidence to remain calmly alone. Training also improves your bond with your dog, making the dog feel more secure that your home is permanent. This kind of training includes structure, and taking the dog away from the home to train and to practice. The outings are important in bonding the dog with you. There is also something about going OUT with you and coming BACK with you repeatedly that seems to help the dog work through the fears. A good, positive-method training class can work well, unless the dog or person has special needs. In that case, look for a good private trainer.


Conditioning the dog to rest calmly in a crate can take time. Keys can be short periods in the crate and giving treats while in the crate. Until the dog is comfortable in the crate, it’s essential not to confine the dog to the crate too long and trigger a panic that would undo all your good conditioning.


It also helps to leave your home and return in a short time, over and over, until the dog gets used to your comings and goings. The dog is picking up the pattern that when you leave, you will come back. Remember to keep all your comings and goings CALM.


Do take care of your dog’s food, water, and potty needs before and after your absences, but avoid high emotion in the ways you do this. For example, don’t take the dog for an intense and exhilarating exercise session, dash home, drop off the dog, and leave. You want the dog calm at the time you leave, not all wound up.


Similarly, if you must potty the dog immediately on returning home because of how long the dog has been alone, keep the outing low-key. Postpone feeding for at least a few minutes after your return. Remember that you don’t want the dog wildly anticipating your return, and food is pretty darned important to most dogs. Feed your dog at least twice a day, so that one meal doesn’t assume too much importance. This also reduces some health risks, such as seizure from low blood sugar, and gastric torsion from eating too much, too fast.


It helps some anxious dogs if you calmly present the dog with a special toy containing food, just as you leave. The idea is for the dog to wind down while enjoying this, and then sack out until you get home. A Kong toy with peanut butter inside can be a good choice.


Sometimes people try to solve separation anxiety by getting another dog as a companion for the anxious one. The result can be two dogs with separation anxiety, and the potential of a real wrecking crew! The best course with behavior problems is usually to work through one dog’s problems before adding another dog to the home.


The dog who has developed separation anxiety after the loss of a long-time dog companion can sometimes benefit from having another dog join the family. If the dog and the family are truly ready for another dog, and the right dog is selected, this does sometimes work.


Looking at things from a dog’s point of view is a great help in coping with separation anxiety. Sometimes it requires detective work to discover what is lacking in the dog’s care. This effort always pays off in a better life for both people and dogs.


www.veterinarypartner.com
Date Published: 3/5/2003 12:23:00 PM
Date Reviewed/Revised: 03/10/2008